Antigua and Monterrico Guatemala

We arrived in the Rio Dulce 10 days ago and spent a few days putting the boat back together and then took off with our friends Beth and John Tally and went to Antigua, Guatemala and then on to Monterrico, on the Pacific coast. We have rented a private home right on the beach. It is a black volcanic sand beach, so different from the beaches we are used to in Destin. The Pacific waves are huge and the surf sounds are terrific. We will have a full moon in a day or two which should be beautiful.

Granada, Nicaragua

We left San Salvador on the TICA bus at 3:00AM. The reason for this early departure was in order to arrive in Managua at noon. The later bus didn't arrive until after dark and we did not want to spend the night in Managua. The bus trip was not too bad. We crossed the Honduran border twice on this leg and that entailed getting off the bus, standing around etc,etc. We grabbed a taxi at the bus station in Managua and were out of there on our way to Granada in about 5 minutes after arrival.

Granada is the oldest city in the Americas, having been founded in 1524.It lies at the base of Volcan Mombacho which is inactive, having last erupted some 22,000 yrs. ago. It is on the shore of Lake Nicaragua which is the largest lake in Central America and was important in the 1850's as part of the water route from the east coast to California. Ships would arrive at the mouth of the San Juan River on the Atlantic coast and smaller boats would then take cargo and passengers up river to the Lake and across. They would then go overland to San Juan del Sur on the Pacific side where ships were awaiting to complete the trip to California. This was shorter and easier than the overland trip in the isthmus of Panama.

Granada is a beautiful old colonial city with many churches. There are many good restaurants and multiple places to stay in every price range. We stayed at The Bohemian Paradise Hotel which was in a quiet and safe neighborhood just 1 block from the convent of San Francisco.We had a nice airconditioned room w/ pvt bath, cable TV and WiFi. Breakfast was included and all this for $45/ night.There were 4 other rooms built around a central courtyard. We spent 6 days here exploring the town and surrounding area including the Volcano.

El Salvador and Nicaragua

I have been remiss, thus far this season, in posting to this blog. It is so much quicker and easier to post pictures to Facebook that I took the easy way out. I will try to make up for it now.

We left the Rio Dulce on February 10th and spent the next two weeks traveling through El Salvador and Nicaragua utilizing public transportation except for the few times that we took taxis or a private tour to a particular destination. The international buses are clean,air-conditioned and show movies, sometimes in English w/ Spanish sub-titles. The Pullmantur bus which we took from Guatemala City to San Salvador was downright luxurious, with large leather reclinable seats and excellent service including a light breakfast and drinks. This was a 6 hour trip leaving the up-scale Zona 10 in Guatemala City and terminating at the Sheraton Presidente Hotel in the like-wise safe and upscale Zona Rosa in San Salvador. On arrival we immediately got a taxi for our first destination, Suchitoto, an hours drive N. of San Salvador. This is an old colonial village situated on Lago Suchitlan, a large man-made lake and one of the largest in Central America. We stayed at Hotel Villa Balanza in a room that boasted a balcony and a beautiful view of the lake and surrounding mountains.There was a TV and full kitchen downstairs where I could make the morning coffee. All this for a whopping $20 per night.The town was fun to explore and there were several good restaurants. We celebrated Valentines day at Los Almendros Restaurante which is part of the expensive hotel of the same name. The food and ambiance were quite nice and we almost had the place to ourselves. From here we will return to San Salvador for a few days.

Back to the Rio Dulce

We left Roatan on April 17th and sailed to Utila where we spent 4 days. We checked out of Honduran customs and immigration before sailing on to Laguna El Diamante on the mainland of Honduras. This is a very well-protected bay surrounded by mangroves and is adjacent to Puerto Escondido where we had spent two nights on the trip over to Roatan 6 weeks ago. We traveled in company with Windquest, Compania and Goin' Places . We have had very strong trade wind conditions for the past 4 weeks and it made for a fast, if somewhat rough ,passage across the Gulf of Honduras. It is about 50 miles from Utila to Diamante and we made it in about 8 hours.

From there we went back to Omoa and checked out the fort which was built by the Spanish 250 years ago. Omoa is a very lively place on the weekends, with lots of folks from San Pedro Sula coming over to enjoy the beach and water activities. We found that they like to play loud music all night which is not conducive to a good nights sleep in the anchorage. Besides our 4 boats, we were joined by our friends, Dave and Jan on Odyssea and we all went ashore for a very good seafood dinner of shrimp and lobster.

From Omoa we sailed the next day to Cabo Tres Puntas which is just across the bay from Livingston which is at the mouth of the Rio Dulce. High tide the next day was at 9 AM so we were up and underway to position ourselves at the bar one hour before high tide .The bar at the mouth of the Rio will carry 5.5 feet at slack tide so it is important to cross on the rising tide.We draw 6 feet and the high that day was 1.9 feet so we slid acoss with about a foot and a half of water beneath our keel.

After checking in to Guatemala in Livingston, we went through the Rio Dulce gorge and back to our slip at Mario's Marina. We will spend the next 10 days getting the boat ready to leave it for the season and then we will fly out of SanPedro Sula Honduras for Houston and then Memphis on May 13.


We have had a great season, have seen a lot of places and have had a lot of fun but it will be good to get home to family and friends. I am even looking forward to going back to work!

Port Royal, Roatan

Port Royal is a large bay on the eastern end of Roatan. In the 18th century it was a hangout for some notorious pirates including Henry Morgan. Nowadays it is a hangout for cruisers and fly-fishermen, most of which are not notorious.


Ashore here is Mango Creek Resort which is a world-renowned fly fishing resort offering some of the best in permit,tarpon and bone-fishing in this part of the world. The owners, Patrice and Terry are former cruisers and world circumnavigators. They are very hospitable and it is possible to eat ashore in the resort restaurant if they aren't full with their own guests. The food is delicious. They make a fish stew which can't be beat.

In the small-world category, Patrice and I discovered that her ex-husband and I were college fraternity brothers at Tulane 40-odd years ago. How's that? She didn't hold it against me.

While anchored here we hiked some 3 miles over the mountain to Camp Bay, a small settlement on the north side of the island.It is very laid-back here. We ate lunch at Sirena's Bar and Restarant which sits out over the azure blue water. Very nice.As you can see Mary made another friend here.

When we leave here we will begin to slowly retrace our steps back toward the west with our plan being to cross the bar back into the Rio Dulce late this month. We are flying back to Memphis in mid-May.

Calabash Bight, Roatan

The south coast of Roatan is studded with inlets that provide good protection from the prevailing trade winds. The north coast, by contrast, is fringed by reefs and is exposed to the easterly trades and the northerlies that accompany cold fronts during the winter. Therefore most large settlements are on the south coast. Some of these such as Coxen Hole and Old French Harbor are commercial and provide ports for the local shrimp fleet( the largest in the Caribbean) and cruise ships.




The others such as Calabash Bight are beautiful bays surrounded by hills and are the location of a mixture of homes for local fishermen and for ex-pat gringos as well.


We had just dropped anchor when two local fishermen brought some lobsters which we bought and put on the grill last night....hmmm good.

Even anchored out here we have access to the internet thanks to the entrepreneuership of former cruisers Mark amd Laurie who sell access to their satellite hook-up for a good price. They live in the house on the hill in the upper photo.

Well thats all for now. We will be moving on to Port Royal in a day or so.